Fast fashion has revolutionized the apparel industry, making trendy clothing more affordable and accessible than ever. However, this business model comes at an enormous cost. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the fashion industry produces over 92 million tons of textile waste annually, with fast fashion contributing significantly to this staggering figure. As brands like Zara, H&M, Temu and Shein continue to push rapid production cycles, the environmental and human costs are mounting at an unsustainable rate.
This is the first article in the Fashion and Sustainability series. To gain expert insight into the current state of the industry by examining the different types of fashion business models and how they are designed for overconsumption. Dr. Hakan Karaosman, Associate Professor at Cardiff University, Chief Scientist at FReSCH, and Chair at the Union of Concerned Researchers in Fashion, was interviewed to gain insight on the sector. He is a leading authority on sustainable fashion supply chains and stresses that true sustainability requires systemic change rather than surface-level commitments and certifications. As the son of a garment worker, his research is deeply personal, fueling his mission to bring justice to those working across complex fashion supply chains through scientific inquiry and industry reform.
The Fast Fashion Model: A System Built on Waste and Exploitation
Fast fashion thrives on a high-speed production cycle that prioritizes low costs and rapid turnover. According to the New York Times garment workers in countries such as Bangladesh and Cambodia earn as little as $3 per day, often working in unsafe conditions. Meanwhile, synthetic fabrics like polyester—found in over 60% of garments—release microplastics into the ocean with each wash, further exacerbating pollution according to the United Nations Environment Program.
Ultra-Fast Fashion: The Darker Side of Trend-Driven Apparel
If fast fashion is unsustainable, ultra-fast fashion is outright catastrophic. Brands like Shein, Boohoo, and Fashion Nova have taken the most undesirable aspects of fast fashion and accelerated them through data-driven trend forecasting. Shein alone uploads between 2,000 and 10,000 new styles daily, leveraging algorithmic predictions and influencer marketing to fuel relentless consumer demand according to Times Magazine. A 2022 Business Insider report indicate that some Shein suppliers’ workers are 18-hour shifts for as little as 4 cents per garment.
The Direct-to-Consumer Shift: A Sustainable Solution or Greenwashing?
Direct-to-consumer brands like Everlane and Reformation present themselves as sustainable alternatives by cutting out middlemen and emphasizing ethical sourcing. While this model reduces inventory waste, many brands still rely on overproduction and aggressive marketing tactics. According to Changing Markets Foundation, 59% of sustainability claims by major fashion brands are misleading, indicating that greenwashing remains a significant issue.
The Future of Fashion & the Need for Systemic Change
The dominance of fast and ultra-fast fashion reveals a system built on exploitation and environmental destruction. Unless consumers and policymakers demand greater accountability, the cycle of disposability will continue. The rise of sustainable alternatives and green certification is promising, but without systemic reform, the industry’s impact will remain devastating. Stay tuned for the next article in the series which examines the business models of luxury, resale, and rental fashion industries.
