Earlier this month we reported details on the London Spirits Competition and why the annual judging is distinct from others in the crowded world of tasting awards. In short: the evaluation measures quality, value and appearance. And the scoring system out of 100 resulted in a relatively obscure American brand taking home the top prize for whiskey. Now it’s time to take a closer look at what those prestigious palates deemed the, “Single Malt Whiskey of the Year.”
Indeed, it’s another controversial pick; an expression that’s likely unknown to many American drinkers – until now. Amassing an impressive score of 96, the big winner is The Donn Single Malt Irish Whiskey.
The rich, 46.15% ABV liquid is produced by The Craft Irish Whiskey Company, who grabbed headlines in early 2024 after selling the world’s most expensive bottle of whiskey, ever. That particular bottling, The Emerald Isle fetched a whopping $2.8 million. The Donn, by comparison, is expected to retail for a wholly reasonable $300 when it hits US shelves later this summer.
If you get your hands on it, you’ll uncork a deep mahogany liquid from its tapered decanter. In the snifter, it opens up with firm aromas of darkened berry, figs, and polished oak. It is a texturally significant malt, coating the inside of the mouth with an oily essence, replete with roasted coffee and the sweetness of Pedro Ximenez sherry. It retreats in a slow-marching parade of treacle – complexities that are rarely present in a whiskey aged for under a decade (The Donn is non age-stated on the label, but it matures for around seven years in a battery of different casks).
Rather than relying on age alone, the whiskey’s character is shaped through a complex journey through various barrel types. They include myriad fill levels, char profiles and seasoning methods. For example, in its application of PX sherry casks, three separate formats were employed: fully-filled 68 liter casks; three quarter filled 128 liter casks – to balance oak extraction with controlled oxygen influence – and half-filled 225 liter barrels “to encourage softer oxidative rounding while retaining richness, color, and depth,” according to brand tasting notes. In addition to that, the sourced single malt spent time in virgin Hungarian oak, along with ex-bourbon American oak and Tawny Port-seasoned French Oak.
The elaborate layering of flavors from wood encourages a profound layering of taste and texture perceived on the palate – and it won over some pretty important palates at the London Spirits Competition. Marquee judges there included some of the biggest names in the industry, such as Stephanie Macleod – the legendary master blender for Dewar’s – and Billy Leighton, the iconic longtime blender at Jameson Irish Whiskey.
And speaking of Irish Whiskey, the performance of The Donn at LSC affords another marquee moment to the category. Back in the early 2000s, a $100+ bottle of aged spirit from the island was practically unheard of.
To earn the highest honor at LSC, The Donn beat out well-known single malt offerings from Scotland as well as Japan. Including bottles that have no trouble selling at $300 and up. So it stands to reason that this newcomer to US shelves should make quite the splash later this year. Time will tell. But don’t say the judges at London Spirits Competition didn’t warn you.
